Days 46, 47 and 48

I've put the following days, 46, 47 and 48, in normal chronological order - rather than blog order - because it was a three day trip and I think it's easier to understand this way. I hope you enjoy the entries.

Day 46: Houwan to Checheng

December 7^th:

My last day had ended in Back Bay, or Hou Wan, right next to the National Museum of the Ocean and Aquarium. So I thought I’d start my next day checking out the place. I was not disappointed. Clearly designed to impress children, it succeeded in impressing me as well. The displays of marine life were amazing, especially the main viewing tank with it’s variety of fish, capped by the amazing whale shark.

Outdoor pool replicas: not bad



Roof-hanging replicas


The real deal



This whale shark just endlessly circled the tank

After a few hours there I didn’t have much time left for walking along the coast, but I made the best of the last few hours of the afternoon. I followed the road for a bit, as the coast was given over to a research facility attached to the museum. I found a park on a hill, with an old Qing dynasty fort, and some great views of the surrounding countryside.

Great views in all directions





Walking near the mouth of a small river

Later on, I found my way back to the seaside and human settlement: curious kids and barking dogs, funky old houses, old women cleaning fish in the yard, temples, guys fishing by the shore; a slow pace of life. Such was the town of Shuiliao. Today, however, there was some serious noise coming from it, firecrackers and loudspeakers. When I got further in I found the source: a thank-you procession organized by the local DPP guy who had just won as town leader. Lots of red-toothed smiles!

Democracy in action

On along the beach I went, and then took the road bridge across the Shih Chong River. I followed the water down to the beach for a final look at the setting sun before heading to Kending for the night.

Day 47: Checheng to Fonggang

Yeeeehah! Kids playing at Kending Elementary School

December 8^th, 2009:

It was a lovely sunny day, about 29 C, but very windy. I set off earlyish, and grabbed some breakfast at a shop with rather surly service. Then I got a bus out to where I needed to start, in Checheng.

Sunlight on a somewhat fancier than average small town house

I got off the bus, and found my way to the ocean, going through small streets that people lived in, not simply on. I walked through living vignettes of simple, small-town life: children playing, people chatting with merchants and neighbors.

Through the graveyard to the sea

I hit the beach, and started walking. I soon left settlement behind, and enjoyed the unexpected wildness of this beach. There were no fishermen and almost no garbage. There were flocks of tiny shorebirds everywhere. The wind was kicking up spray off the waves, and whipping sand down the beach.



Old pillbox

Beach views



After about an hour of walking, I came to a big hotel, where the beach came back to the road at a small harbor. Next to this hotel there was a small beach with ATV’s for rent.



Then, back to walking the road, with frequent trips down to the shoreline, which was a bit rocky for easy passage.





Pond for a seaside farm




Open-water fish farm frames

Groovy gas station

The beauty of betel nut


Modern-looking resort



Lovely green colored house

Eventually I came to another beach which I walked, then got to where Highway 9 split off from 1 to become the Southern Cross Island Highway. From there, I got a bus back to Kending.

Back to Smokey Joes! Two-for-one Long Island Ice Tea’s sounded like a good idea at the time, but got me pretty tipsy. Fortunately, the staff at Joe’s were extremely friendly, and we had a nice chat.